FREE Arctic Leopard SPEED Mod! transcript

What's going on? I don't like saying what's going on. Today we're going to show you how to make your Arctic Leopard XF extra fast for free. All right. >> [music] >> Bolo Gritch here. Today we're going to show you how to make your Arctic Leopard XF extra fast for free. All right, so first off, the XE and the XF Pro Arctic Leopard bikes do come with FarDriver controllers, which are tunable via FarDriver app that you need to download.

Once you download the app, connect the app on your phone to the bike via Bluetooth. There is no dongle or anything like that needed. The controller does have Bluetooth already integrated into it. Once you've connected Bluetooth to the app on your phone, you're going to see a few menu items. This is going to be should default to simple mode. These are just overall parameter adjustments. If you mess with these, you're not really improving anything in the bike.

You're just kind of either turning things up or turning things down. So, what we're going to do is we're going to go into the pro mode. So, if you scroll all the way down to the bottom, you look at the bottom right, you see pro mode, click that. We're only going to mess with three to four different things in here. If you mess with anything else, you could cause catastrophic failure to your controller, battery, motor, etc., etc.

We've >> That was you beeping. Can you change your own setting? >> [laughter] >> So, as we're tuning these things, you need to be very conscious cuz this is going to be dependent on rider weights and also riding condition. Uh me, I'm 180 lb. I'm going to tune it to me to try to maximize everything I can get. If you're a lighter rider or a heavier rider, you might get different responses. So, just be conscious. If the bike does anything weird, any motor cogging or anything like that.

All right, so that one I got to turn the power down. Not really cogging, but I felt it like pulling in and out of power, like it was accelerating and then slowing down and accelerating on its own. >> Any parameters that you just adjust it, just dial back slightly. We're going to move in increments of five when we're going through our first setting. Our first setting is going to be ratios in speed. Ratios and speed is basically the phase current that's delivered per RPM base.

You'll see 500, 1,000, 1,500, 2,000, etc., etc. By default, the factory sets this off very aggressive to start and then it kind of just ramps down. 0 to 30 cuz it doesn't do 60. 0 to 30 2.55 seconds. 8th mile is 11.49 seconds. This is on all stock settings. How I set up our bikes and we'll show you some demonstrations on stock versus our setup via draggy, so you'll see the 60-ft, 30-ft, all that stuff. How we set up our bikes is actually dialing the power down on the lower RPMs.

That way the bike is more controllable but still responsive on low RPM. All right, hold on. I got to restart that. This is why you got to turn the power down on a low end, so it's actually controllable to launch. And then actually ramping power up kind of mid-range, but then also ramping it down. All right, so that one I got to turn the power down. Mid-range to high-range is the tricky part cuz you got to figure out what the actual max limit is. 2 to 5% change will clear that up.

You just have to figure out where it's doing it at in the RPM range. That way you can mess with the current coefficients in that RPM range. So, what I just did is I screen recorded that run. That way I could look at the Far Driver app and look at the kilowatts and the RPM and try to see what's happening at what range. That way I could just dial back. Once you turn something up too high, the motor might start cogging.

You just got to turn it down a little bit. So, just be very conscious of that so you don't hurt anything or anything like that. You don't want to be riding around with a motor cogging just ride the bike like that for weeks. We see people do stuff like this on their bikes and doesn't make sense. The other parameter that we're going to adjust is the throttle sensitivity. The excel sensitivity, okay? This by default is set to 224.

It's going to vary bike to bike. What I would do is I would go do a test hit with the bike bone stock, see how it feels, and just change one thing at a time. So, if you're just starting with throttle, start it at 224 where it starts at default, go do a test hit, then change that parameter down. Throttle you could be pretty aggressive with on how you change it because it's already maxed out to the highest sensitivity possible.

So, if you change that down to let's say 20, you're going to give it throttle, it's going to do like nothing. So, my sweet spot for me is about 170 175. Other people might want it maxed out or might want it lower. I think it depends on riding conditions and how you're using the bike. The other thing is weak response. This is field weakening. By default, it's set to zero. If you want more range, turn weak response up higher.

Zero is maximum field weakening. If you want more range, less top speed, turn that parameter up higher. It should max out at I think nine. Um you don't want to turn it off completely because then when you go into field weakening state, it's going to be like you hit a brick wall and your bike's just not going to accelerate past 4500 RPMs or 3000 RPMs, whatever it is for this KV rated motor. Um Yeah, so we're going to go ahead and do some test hits and show you the parameter adjustments and stuff like that that we've changed and how it's made the bike act different.

All right. Chagie says it's connected. Let's see what it does. It It's so slow. It's probably not going to Draggy's not going to pick it up. Are you ready? >> [snorts] >> All right, hold on. I got to restart that. This is why you got to turn the power down on a low end, so it's actually controllable to launch. >> [screaming] >> I wonder if we picked anything up. Hello. All right, official run. 0 to 30 2.55 seconds. 8th mile is 11.49 seconds.

This is on all stock settings. First thing I'm going to do if we're starting at a at a start gate on an off-road race or street ride, I'm turning the low-end power way down. If I want to give it full throttle, it's not controllable. I have to be very reliant on being able to modulate the throttle very, very well. When I could just limit power there and it would perform a lot better. And it would still be peppy to the point where it would pop up if you needed to.

I'm going to turn throttle excel step down to 180. That's typically where I like it. Then ratios and speed I'm going to mess with. 500 RPM, I'm going to set that to Let's say 75. 1,000 RPM, I'm going to set that to 80. 1,500 RPMs, I'm actually going to leave 1,500 RPMs at 85 where it is by default. 2,000 RPMs is at 80 by default. I'm going to actually ramp that up to 90. And now I got to click save. Once this is saved, bike's going to go back into park.

I'm going to take it out of park. And what I'm going to do now is I'm just going to try to do that 0 to 30 hit. My best time was 2.55 seconds. Prior time was 2.56 or something like that. It was very close. So, we're going to see if we can improve on that just by those few RPM changes right there. >> [snorts] [screaming] >> All right. So, I got to actually turn power up. That was literally full throttle and you saw the wheel picked up a lot slower.

It still picked up cuz power is ramping in at a lower rate and ramping in heavier rather than all the power all at once. So, 500 RPM I'm going to turn that up to about 85. 1,000 RPMs I'm going to also match that at 85. 1,500 RPM we're going to leave that at 85 as well. 2,000 is at 90. I'm going to save this. So, I just changed those first two RPM parameters from 75 to 80 and I just matched them both at 85. So, we're going to see what it does now on the takeoff at least.

Let me go back to Dragy. Oh, and our Dragy time was actually slower that time by 10 milliseconds. Takeoff is much much better. >> That one looked good. >> Yeah. And that was I'm like purposefully not modulating throttle cuz I want to see where the power is coming in at. So, if you get on this side you'll you'll be able to see like throttle hand and how the bike's responding in comparison to how it was responding at first.

So, full throttle. >> [groaning] >> It's still So, it still lifts up. It's just way less aggressive. All right, so I think 500 to 2,000 RPM range is pretty solid. We don't need to mess with that. Now, we're going to see 2,500 RPM and up, what we could actually push this thing to in terms of power output without it starting to act chattery or anything like that. You'll feel the motor cogging. Cogging is like where the motor is like like stuttering or like hesitating.

You feel it like pulsing. 2,500 RPMs is 75. I'm going to turn that up to I'm going to just turn everything up in an increment of five. So, 80. 75. 60. Okay, we're done. All right, so we just got back from our certified drag strip and I forgot as I was we were riding back, I remembered. We increased RPM from 4,000, which is stock, up to 6,800. And we have no temp issues or anything like that. Field weakening's kicking in right at 4,000, 3,500 to 4,000, it looks like.

Our top speed has increased significantly. Before this bike was I think GPS'd at like 48 miles an hour, it definitely does like 65 now. Um maybe Dragy will show us that. I'm not really sure. We'll find out soon. That's